冰火波羅遊 (17) - Day 7 - 雲達里皇宮 (Rundale Palace) - April 10, 2015

冰火波羅遊 (17) - Day 7 - 雲達里皇宮 (Rundale Palace) - April 10, 2015 - Part I

早上起來，覺得自己很不妥……流鼻水和咳嗽……真的感冒了？！ *:-O 驚訝

我問小峰，是感冒了？他怎麼知道。

小峰說：『症狀呀！從飛機下來已叫你吃藥，你不聽。一向你只相信別人的說話，就是不相信我，沒辦法。』 *[-( 不跟你說!

早上在街上鑽了鑽。

在街上蹓躂了一會，便開始拉脫維亞重要的旅程，首先到雲達里皇宮(隆黛爾皇宮) 。對於雲達里皇宮，雖然網上介紹的並不多，但到來拉脫維亞，都會去這個皇宮。

離開古城，向雲達里皇宮進發。我的導遊是一位中年女士，名字叫Olga，她令我想起梅麗史翠普，一位很優雅的女士。

看到 Rundales Pils這個字。 Pils即Castle，城堡的意思。

遠處看到一座城堡，我不知是什麼，Olga說，在拉脫維亞有很多城堡，如錫古爾達新堡(Sigulda New Castle) 和圖雷達城堡 (Turaida Castle)。但時間關係，我們都不會參觀，就拍一張城堡照片吧！

現在是初春，所以沒有什麼花卉點綴，郊野有點蒼涼的感覺。夏天到來，這裡遍的野花，將是另一個光景。

到達雲達里皇宮，你可能完全想像不到，因為，這的確是一個郊外、什麼也沒有！Olga說，交通配套不足，一般來的遊客都是團隊或自駕遊。如果是背包族，可以乘巴士，但站頭在二、三公里以外，走很遠才能到達。

這是紀念品店！

餐廳

到皇宮前經過一條林蔭大道，旁邊是蘋果樹林

雲達里皇宮(Rundale Palace - Rundãle pils)

在Bauska以西12公里處之Pilsrundāle，是拉脫維亞最重要宮殿和接待國賓的外交禮遇場面，也是遊客到訪該國主要目的地之一…雲達里皇宮。

雲達里皇宮是巴洛克和洛可可式的宮殿，宮殿外有美麗如畫的巨大花園組成，這是俄羅斯女皇安娜送給她戀慕的幕僚 - 厄恩斯特‧約翰‧畢隆的夏宮。1730年安娜登上女皇寶座，延攬當時俄羅斯宮廷最傑出的義大利建築師 Francesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli (1700 – 1771)，著手為畢隆在Rundāle設計一座宮殿，實際興建於1736至1740年間。Rastrelli的代表作包括聖彼得堡的夏宮及嘉芙蓮皇宮，以奢華瑰麗及豐饒裝置聞名。

畢隆權傾朝野，生活極盡奢華，裝束配備生活用度，不低於女皇規格。人們以 German Yoke (德國枷鎖) 以形容他靠安娜女皇而巧取豪奪和高壓統治。 雲達里皇宮的興建工程，最後因女皇安娜的逝世及畢隆被政敵攻擊而流放，整整停頓了20年。直到嘉芙蓮大帝登基赦免了畢隆，恢復其柯爾藍公爵爵位，年逾70的畢隆於1764年回到雲達里，才又重新啟動後續工程。大部分的內部裝置，是在1765至1768年間，由來自柏林的雕刻家 Johann Michael Graff、義大利畫家 Francesco Martini 和 Carlo Zucchi合力打造完成。是拉脫維亞最華麗的巴洛克和洛可可宮殿。

第一次世界大戰時，雲達里皇宮曾作為醫院及德軍指揮所。宮殿在1919年的拉脫維亞獨立戰爭中嚴重損毀，1933年由國家歷史博物館接收修復。二次世界大戰雖幸運地逃過炮火攻擊，但淪為倉庫。 1972年整建裝修後成為獨立的歷史博物館，目前138個房間中有40間開放參觀。

進入皇宮前，可見建築物兩面是不同顏色，皇宮仍在復修中。

雲達里皇宮的票價可以用『貨真價實』來形容。皇宮主要分四個部份，短程、長程、後花園、收藏珍品。我第一次走走他們的官網搜尋資料的時候，正值一月隆冬，官網圖片竟然是烏雲籠罩下雪地上的皇宮，十分真實，一派『你0黎到就係咁0架啦！』的模樣。我想起九寨溝的圖片甚至官網，無論什麼時候和季節都會見到五彩疊翠的圖片。夏天只有翠疊，圖片顯示是七彩，冬天明明只有雪景，官網圖片竟然都有七彩！

春天了，雲達里皇宮官網更新，就是這個樣子，花園無花0架！所以免費到後花園。

皇宮屋頂的鳥巢，在皇宮內，也有不少這種鸛鳥的雕刻。

Short route (€4歐羅) - The staterooms (包含白廳、黃金廳、畫廊the White Hall, Gold Hall, Grand Gallery), 和兩個公爵房間。

Long route (€6歐羅) - 包括短程的房間及公爵與夫人的官邸

至於第三部份是Gothic Style to Art Nouveau的作品，因為我找不到資料，Olga也說看Long route已經足夠，在下午仍有行程的情況下，我只選了Long route

夏天時份，後花園票價 €4歐羅，五月和十月是€1.5歐羅，11月至4月免費。攜照相機拍照€2歐羅。

不過最奇趣的是，如果要館內導遊導賞，需三天前預訂，導遊費€40歐羅！仲貴過入場費！如果是一個團，當然沒問題，大家分擔費用好了；我是獨行啊！Olga說，她是領了牌的可以收取我 €20歐羅做嚮導，不過我婉拒了，在未來到拉脫維亞前，已搜集了皇宮的資料，因為導遊費用太貴呀！ *:P 伸舌頭

公爵接待室 (The Antechamber of the Duke's Apartments)

黃金廳 (Golden Hall) -皇室代表及貴族會集的地方

The Gilded Hall

The Throne room and a place of state gatherings. The ceiling painting executed by Italian artists Francesco Martini and Carlo Zucchi in 1766-1767. It depicts the merits of a state ruler. The medallions represent the allegories of music, architecture, painting and other arts. The stucco marble paneling of the walls and gilded stucco decorations are made by J.M. Graff’s team in 1767. Although the composition of the décor shows Rastrelli’s stylistic elements, the decoration of the hall belongings to the Rococo style brought by J.M.Graff from Berlin, and Potsdam. The wreaths of different symbols in the panels show music, painting, architecture, geography, cattle-breeding, gardening, fishing, hunting. In the upper part of southern and northern panels on the silver background, there are the Duke’s initials E.J. (Ernst Johann). The mirrors were destroyed in 1812 by soldiers, restored in 1984.

黃金廳是整座皇宮最華貴的廳殿，是公爵舉辦盛宴的場所。金碧輝煌華麗氛圍一如柏林波茨坦宮殿的洛可可風格。

看裝飾頭像的帽子多漂亮啊！

經過長畫廊

The Blue Room

The Ceiling decoration was executed by Johann Michael Graff’s team in 1760s. The parquet partially preserved from the 18^th century, Damask wall hangings, panels and the stove were reconstructed during the restoration, the room was finished in 1984

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The Small Gallery

Stucco moulding made after F.B. Rastrelli’s draft, by a group of craftsman from St. Petersburg under guidance of Piotr Yefremov. The vacant smooth spaces on the walls were intended for plate glass windows, but this project was never carried out.

白廳…白廳是整個宮殿最大的房間，原設計為禮拜堂，後改為舞會和音樂廳。純白色的雕塑精緻華麗，大廳前後兩端是象徵水、火、土、空氣四元素的浮雕，門楣上有22幅浮雕，描繪狩獵、畜牧、農耕和收成的四季風光。精緻的雕刻令人嘆為觀止，這個廳殿也是我最喜歡的一個。

White Hall

The Stucco decoration were finished by J.M. Graff’s team in 1768. On 45b stucco consoles there are Chinese and Japanese c17-19 porcelain vases. Chinese vases are with under-glaze cobalt painting, Japanese vases c 18 (2 vases on the floor and five on the consoles have under-glaze cobalt and over-glaze red enamel and gilding.

The Ball-Room. The Stucco decoration were finished by J.M. Graff’s team in the 1^st half on 1786. Above the cornice there are bas-reliefs of four seasons, at both ends of the hall and the four elements of the world – fire, water, earth and air. There are bas-reliefs of pastoral scenes at the upper part of the northern and southern walls. The rosette of the ceiling is made as the sun with stork’s nest on it.

瓷器室，擺放不少中國和日本的瓷器

The Porcelain Room at the White Hall

The Duke's State Apartments

公爵官邸廳室位於建築物的中央，包括十個向南的房間，五個天花板彩繪神話故事，四個新古典風格房間則為雕塑。房間內青花壁爐及絲絨牆面佈置根據十八世紀的式樣復修。

The Rose Room(玫瑰廳 )

The ceiling decorated by Italian painters Francesco Martini and Carlo Zucchi. The paintings shows Flora – the goddess of spring and flowers with her attendants. The wall decoration with stucco-marble and polychrome garlands of flowers executed by J.M. Graff and his team in 1760’s. The parquet made during the period of the palace construction till 1740, restored. The painted overdoors reconstructed after F. Boucher. The copy of the stove was made in St. Petersburg,

整個皇宮，除黃金廳、白廳外，最吸引的應該就是玫瑰廳了。

The Dutch Salon(荷蘭廳)

The ceiling decoration was executed by Johann Michael Graff’s team in 1760s. The parquet was reconstructed after the pattern of the original in Riga in 1989. A copy of the stove was made in Leningrad after the pattern of original 18^th century tiles. Brocatelle wall hangings, made of silk and linen, were woven in Moscow in the 1980s.

The Room with Ruler's Potraits(統治者畫像廳 )

The Ceiling decoration was executed by Johann Michael Graff in the 1760s. The parquet was made after the original in 1989. The original 18^th century stove was restored in 1990. Damask wall hangings were woven after the pattern of wall hangings in the New Palace in Potsdam (1765).